November selection, curated by sommelier Francesco Cannizzaro and dedicated to the wines of Marche, Umbria and Tuscany for a coast to coast trip to Central Italy (Step 44)
MARCHE
Marotti Campi , Morro D'alba (AN)
Lying down to admire the Adriatic, which characterizes its history and traditions, the Marche has linked its name essentially to two wines in particular. On the red front, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba has long since crossed national borders, imposing itself with its own style and conquering a wide range of audiences even abroad. For whites, the success achieved by Verdicchio is even greater and dated over time, with its splendid flexibility and easily recognizable character. The Marotti Campi winery, condensing its centenary history, has dedicated a large part of its production efforts to the two representative wines of the territory, to the point of becoming a reference for the most demanding consumers. The origins of the winery date back to the mid-nineteenth century, when the Marotti family acquired the first portion of land in the Sant'Amico district of Morro d'Alba, halfway between Jesi and Senigallia. The villa was built here, the center of the sharecropping universe that would develop in the future. In 1991, under the guidance of Giovanni Marotti Campi, the winery intensifies production, directing it to the cultivation of lacrima and verdicchio. Today the company run by Giovanni, Francesca and Lorenzo Marotti Campi has sixty-eight hectares of vineyards, from which it produces wines that are faithful witnesses of the terroir from which they come, sincere interpreters of the Marche winemaking tradition.
UMBRIA
Napolini , Montefalco (PG)
Since my first steps into the world of wine, Umbrian wines have exerted a seductive charm, which I have rarely resisted. As in all of central Italy, winemaking began in Umbria with the Etruscan presence and intensive and specialized viticulture began in the nineteenth century. Known above all for its red wines, Umbria has inextricably linked its name to the wine production in the areas of Montefalco and Torgiano .
And the name of the Napolini winery quickly imprinted itself well in my memory, supported by an absolutely remarkable level of quality of the wines produced. The company, strictly family-run, is located on the hills of Montefalco, in the green heart of the green heart of Italy, forty kilometers south of Perugia. An enviable position, three hundred meters above sea level, on the hillside that kisses the horizon of Trevi and Spoleto. The album of cellar memories has a similar sequence to that of many others: the production of bulk wine, which began in the 1950s and was based on the creation of products for everyday use, gave way to that of bottled wines in the early 2000s. Blessed was the decision! Naples wines are appreciated for their authenticity and longevity and any winelover should try them at least once in their life, to quickly understand that drinking a glass requires the essence of a wine and its territory.
Adanti , Bevagna (PG)
An old convent of the Celestine Congregation marks the historical origins of Cantina Adanti. Located in the municipality of Bevagna, in the area historically suited to the production of traditional Umbrian wines, the Adanti winery was founded thanks to the perspicacity of Domenico Adanti. In the 1960s, Domenico purchased a villa in the hamlet of Arquata di Bevagna and with it the remains of the old convent. In the following years, Domenico had the property renovated and effectively created the modern Cantina Adanti, with the declared aim of producing quality wines. Good intentions, in wine as in life, do not always have a happy outcome, or at least not immediately. The first vinifications, in fact, were not perfect but along the way Domenico met Alvaro Palini, first a tailor and then a stylist in Paris and a great lover of Umbrian wines. The chronicles tell of intense confrontations between Alvaro and Domenico, until the latter invited his friend to personally take care of the winemaking. It was a turning point not only for Cantina Adanti but also for the entire Sagrantino world. The contribution of Alvaro Palini, in fact, was decisive for the fate of Umbrian wines: today the sisters Daniela and Donatella Adanti, having taken over the baton from their father Piero, continue to produce wine in the footsteps - it must be said - traced by their grandfather Domenico , in the name of ampelographic prerogatives and family tradition.
TUSCANY
San Guglielmo , Montalcino (SI)
The world of wine is full of stories and I like it for this reason too. Stories of people, places and spaces that intertwine, sometimes guided by will, more often by chance. That of Cantina San Guglielmo has a powerful narrative of events that over the course of centuries seem apparently disjointed, but are not. In the western quadrant of Montalcino there is a parcel called Il Chiesino. Here are the rows of sangiovese of San Guglielmo, a single vineyard of just one and a half hectares, lying gently on a slope entirely surrounded by oaks and holm oaks. I have been there, I guarantee that in its simplicity it is breathtakingly beautiful. Ilaria Martini runs the cellar with the help of her father and husband and has recently decided to bottle, after years of winemaking and deliveries. Stories, I was saying. And the history of San Guglielmo starts from Ilaria's grandfather, Guglielmo Martini, one of the founding members of the Brunello di Montalcino consortium. Today, a long journey and the desire to do it alone have allowed Ilaria and her family to dream again, to reconnect with nature and the past, to design life through wine and working the land.
Chapel of Sant'Andrea , San Gimignano (SI)
In the land of Brunello and Chianti it is not easy for a Tuscan area to stand out for the production of a white wine, but that is what San Gimignano has done with great merit with its Vernaccia. The importance of the wine-growing history of the San Gimignano area is demonstrated by one fact, among many: Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first wine to obtain the DOC in 1966, together with l'Est! East! East! of Montefiascone, the white, red and superior Ischia and the Frascati. The Cappella Sant'Andrea winery, in Casale di San Gimignano, condenses the lively and proud spirit of an area with a very strong wine vocation, and manifests it in the passionate and conscious work of Flavia Del Seta and Francesco Galgani. Their first harvest was in 2006 and their approach was - and still is - first and foremost one of great respect for the vineyard and the territory. Flavia and Francesco feel they are the creators of the continuation of an ancient tradition and feel the responsibility for it. At Cappella Sant'Andrea the watchword is sustainability : the conversion to organic is the logical consequence of their philosophy, but it is not the only step in their journey. Cappella Sant'Andrea is in fact the meeting point of harmonious coexistence, where the vineyard divides the land with donkeys, goats and horses, under the universal sign of nature. The presence of animals allows the self-production of compost, to be used for the vitality of the soil. There are eight hectares of vineyards and, in addition to Vernaccia, there are native Tuscan vines and Merlot. The wines produced by Cappella Sant'Andrea are the bottled summary of the dimension that Flavia and Francesco have created, removed from the frenzy of modern society and aimed at healthy and respectful production.
ENTHUSIAST BOX
Clara Stella Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Sant'Andrea Chapel
A young Vernaccia as it should be... a young Vernaccia! A balanced wine, ready-made, not demanding but certainly reliable.
The grapes are harvested by hand and immediately pressed. After cold decanting, fermentation begins, after which the wine remains on the fine lees for three months.
Dressed in a beautiful straw yellow, it offers a direct nose of field daisies, mapo, exotic flashes of mango and creme brulee. Agile mouthfeel, very fresh, rightly tasty. The finish is enriched by a very pleasant vegetal trail, which invites you to drink. Versatile and recognisable, it is a wine that can delight everyday life or embellish convivial evenings.
It pairs delicately with gentle second courses based on white meat, such as escalope au citron. Serving temperature: 12° C.
Taste now or within 2 years at the latest.
Orgiolo Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Superiore, Marotti Campi
Let's say it clearly: glasses like this literally bring you closer to wine! With Orgiolo, Marotti Campi teaches the use of wood, combining it with the fruity and spicy variations of Lacrima di Morro d'Alba. Ruby with typical purple reflections, a faceted nose, it offers generous sighs of violets, black cherries, rhubarb on a spicy background of cloves and pink pepper. The taste is satisfying, enveloping; the tannin is centered and promises a bright future.
It finds fulfillment with a typical Marche dish: vincisgrassi with meat sauce and chopped giblets. Serving temperature: 16° C.
Taste now or within four years.
Rosso di Montefalco, Napolini
Manual harvest, maturation in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months, refinement in bottle for 6 months.
Essence of Umbrian wine, Rosso di Montefalco Napolini is a blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and Montepulciano. Four souls that coexist in harmony on the score traced above all by Sangiovese, supported by a scent of red rose, blood orange, eucalyptus, humus, leather. The momentum in the mouth is dictated by a balanced and inviting acidity, a calibrated tannin and a champion's progression.
It lends itself to pairings with meat dishes, even important ones: try it with baked picanha. Serving temperature: 16° C.
Taste now or within 5 years at most.
PASSIONATE BOX
Rosso di Montalcino, San Guglielmo
The DOC Rosso di Montalcino was created in 1984 to obtain quality wines from grapes from relatively young vineyards: aging lasts one year, of which 6 months in wood.
Produced in just four thousand bottles, San Guglielmo's Rosso di Montalcino is the result of the manual harvesting of Sangiovese Grosso grapes, followed by a careful and calibrated winemaking process. For Ilaria, the health of the grapes intended for pressing is the first criterion, the essential step without which it is not possible to make quality wine. The intention takes shape and substance in the glass, ruby red at times hypnotic, with a beautiful consistency. The olfactory contribution is caressing and yet decisive, with clear statements of geranium, ripe cherry, blackberry, tobacco, hints of cinnamon. In the mouth it shows youthful freshness, well integrated by the typical varietal tannin, enveloping, focused with superb elegance.
It is not afraid of bold combinations, such as truffle-based dishes. It is served at 16° C.
Taste now or within 6 years.
Autumn flight Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marotti Campi
Made from Verdicchio grapes grown 180 meters above sea level, Volo d'Autumn is astonishing. It refines for six months on its skins, slowly taking on the character that the grape has made its own until ripening. The result is a wine obtained by reduction, without extremism or color effects aimed at arousing wonder. Bright and concentrated straw yellow, with a particular bouquet of anise and thyme, it develops a constant citrus note, initially with hints of grapefruit and continuing with hints of bergamot. In the mouth it is full, marking the palate with personality towards an unexpected and progressive finish.
Perfect with saffron risotto and red prawns. Serving temperature: 14° C. Taste now or within two years.
Rosso di Montefalc or, Napolini
Essence of Umbrian wine, Rosso di Montefalco Napolini is a blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and Montepulciano. Four souls that coexist in harmony on the score traced above all by Sangiovese, supported by a scent of red rose, blood orange, eucalyptus, humus, leather. The momentum in the mouth is dictated by a balanced and inviting acidity, a calibrated tannin and a champion's progression.
It lends itself to pairings with meat dishes, even important ones: try it with baked picanha. Serving temperature: 16° C.
Taste now or within 5 years at most.
EXPERT BOX
Brunello di Montalcin or, San Guglielmo
Ilaria Martini has put everything she has into her Brunello. Each fraction, whether luminous or papillary, speaks of his dedication and tells better than any writing what is behind every single glass. Obtained from grapes grown from a single plot, a vineyard known in Montalcino as Campo dei Veggioni, Brunello di San Guglielmo sees its first bottle with the 2016 vintage, defined as among the best of all time. The light of its colors is iridescent and alive, the aromas compose a kaleidoscope of rare intensity: the floral approach of peony and dog rose gives way to a succession of fruity hints of plums and black cherries, punctuated by precise spicy touches. Cocoa, cinnamon, tamarind and nutmeg are noticeable. The olfactory presentation precedes the aristocratic sip, of a powerful and fine wine, with rigorous material consistency, balanced flavor and softness, and a valuable tannic burst. Very long ending, which cannot be forgotten.
For pairing it requires a structured dish, such as hare with juniper. Serving temperature: never above 18° C.
Taste now or keep in the cellar for up to 10 years.
Autumn flight V erdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marotti Campi
Made from Verdicchio grapes grown 180 meters above sea level, Volo d'Autumn is astonishing. It refines for six months on its skins, slowly taking on the character that the grape has made its own until ripening. The result is a wine obtained by reduction, without extremism or color effects aimed at arousing wonder. Bright and concentrated straw yellow, with a particular bouquet of anise and thyme, it develops a constant citrus note, initially with hints of grapefruit and continuing with hints of bergamot. In the mouth it is full, marking the palate with personality towards an unexpected and progressive finish.
Perfect with saffron risotto and red prawns.
Serving temperature: 14° C. Taste now or within two years.
Montefalco Sagrantino Passito , Adanti
The versatility of the vine finds its home in this passito, obtained from pure Sagrantino grapes. Elegance and intensity converge in this glass, with a full nose of sour cherries in alcohol, Modica chocolate, dates and carob. The sip has a jazz concert sound, multi-instrumental and jovial. The acidity and tannin accompany the drink, flanking it with savory vigor, without slipping, without hesitations, just pleasure.
Try it with a slice of caprese cake and chopped round hazelnuts from Avellino.
Serving temperature: in combination it is served at 14° C.
Taste now or keep in the cellar for up to 6 years.
