October selection, curated by sommelier Patrizia Loiola , and dedicated to the wines of the Dolomites ( STAGE 43)
Here is the selection of wineries and wines that we have proposed in the October 2021 thematic boxes, dedicated to the wines of the Dolomites.
Crodarossa , Lentiai (BL)
The Crodarossa estate is located in Colderù, a hamlet of Lentiai up there on the left side of Valbelluna: the Piave flows below, majestic, wide, in the middle of the stone bed. The view is spectacular with the vineyards that seem to act as a sentinel to the Sacred River.
The "croda" in dialect is the rock, the red one of the Prealps of the Dolomites which gives all the characteristic hints of mountain wines to the product of this spectacular winery.
Crodarossa was born in 2013 from the inspiration of Paolo Remini, with a degree in agriculture and a local entrepreneur who decided, also supported by his wife Martina Vergerio, to start immediately with a project aimed at sustainability.
The immediate choice was to favor resistant vines to significantly reduce the use of plant protection products: Paolo has two children, is sensitive to the issue of eco-sustainability and knows well how fundamental everyone's health is!
Since the opening year, great strides have been made, and today the company is certified organic.
The first two hectares of vineyard are planted with solaris , some rows of souvigner gris : to these is added a small vineyard in Feltre where ancient pavana vineyards are recovered, a native variety that grows on the stones left by the Piave.
An already interesting range of wines, including a classic method, two other very interesting sparkling wines, an elegant white souvigneir gris and two red wines, one from resistant vines Cortis , and a more complex one from Merlot grapes which we will discover!
De Bacco , Feltre (BL)
Marco and Valentina, the De Bacco brothers (a surname and a destiny, one might say!) began their journey into viticulture about ten years ago, she had just graduated and he was slightly older: they had no lack of determination, nor did they lack passion. . They had taken on a great responsibility in carrying out an almost extreme viticulture, in a place, the Feltre area, where they were, at the time, practically the only ones to bottle and make quality wine. In reality they were continuing a family tradition, dating back to the end of the nineteenth century with the planting of a vineyard which is still present on the company.
Today that they have grown and accumulated experience, their determination and passion have not faded, nor has the desire to always improve.
They work around ten hectares with some vineyards truly perched on the Prealpine slopes, between 400 and 600 meters above sea level: local varieties are cultivated such as the pavana and the Bianchetta, the Trevigiana nera (in dialect "gata") and the Turkish red, as well as to teroldego and some international varieties.
Viticulture is very careful and respectful of the territory, aimed at safeguarding traditions such as that of raising the vineyard with a pergola typical of the area called assera , which is supported on planks fitted together to form a very particular layout. The freshness in the wines, the ease of drinking and the territorial imprint are distinctive.
Pian delle Vette , Feltre (BL)
We are located on the coasts above Pedavena, in the Vignui area, altitude 580 meters above sea level, a moraine territory left by glaciers, characterized by complex minerality in the subsoil. This is a location historically dedicated to viticulture, as also documented by some maps, the "Vignui ", (trans. the vineyards) .
Pian delle Vette is the project of Egidio d'Incà and Walter Lira who, instead of retiring, as it seems they could have done, decided to take over this company, destined to disappear, to make it flourish again, in an enchanted place, at the gates of the Park National team of the Belluno Dolomites.
The challenge was to carry out quality viticulture at high altitude, respecting the surrounding environment in conditions that are not always easy and for this reason choosing typical mountain or high hill varieties: a single body of 2.5 hectares around the cellar with classic postcard landscape, indeed, instagrammable as it is today.
The vineyards are approximately 15 years old, dedicated both to white grapes such as Chardonnay, Souvignier Gris, Müller Thurgau, Bianchetta for sparkling wines and still whites, and to red grapes, Pinot Noir, Teroldego, Gamaret (a cross between Gamay and Reichensteiner) and Diolinoir. (cross between pinot noir and rouge de doilly).
Derù is a brut Martinotti method sparkling wine which immediately tells us about the Dolomite mountain effect applied to the solaris - a resistant vine - which in this area truly expresses itself at its best, especially after a few years: the wine is delicate on the nose, with nuances of bread crust but also notes of hay, chamomile, something tropical and citrus to enrich it. The sip is vibrant, good acidity on the palate, the flavor is well present, as are the elegant fruit aromas of the vine. You can close your eyes while sipping it and you will feel like you are under a small waterfall among the many Dolomite streams. In the finish there are intriguing citrine notes and again the Dolomite "stone". The name of the wine comes from Colderù, where the vines are located, 450 meters above sea level, those that admire the Piave.
For pairings there is no doubt about pairing it with some typical local cured meat, a nice slice of soppressa in the company of friends or a piece of fresh Piave dairy, typical of these areas, with hot bread, but also a grilled trout seasoned with aromatic herbs from the mountain pastures (in this case, thyme from your home garden is fine!). Serve at 6-7° C.
Taste now: it's at the top.
Vanduja, De Bacco
The name dates back to Bepi "the Vanduja" who in the nineteenth century planted the vineyards which then passed to the De Bacco family, from pure Pavana grapes (harvested by hand), it is a true native with a beautiful personality, it grows on gravelly and limestone vineyards. Pavana was the home grape variety in the Feltrino area: the wine brought to the table, very resistant to diseases such as downy mildew and powdery mildew, was also cultivated for these reasons, in the subsistence economy of the area, now a rarity. It is vinified in steel with a maceration on the skins for 25 days and continuous pumping over as well as a very light passage of two months in barrique, just to tone down the mountain character: it gives us a fruity nose of small black cherries, well defined and inviting, with notes of fresh tobacco and vinous traits. Juicy in the mouth, it has an exciting sip, very light tannins, with a nice acid-savory vein that lengthens the finish.
An excellently enjoyable and pleasant wine that the De Bacco brothers propose combined with a wonderful soppressa, which in these parts is smaller than the Treviso one, but with a high gustatory value, or even with the Vanduja salami, born from a collaboration with a local delicatessen: in addition to cured meats, I wouldn't disdain pairing them with a nice pasta and beans or a risotto with sausage!
Taste now, or within a couple of years.
Sacolet, Pian delle vette
From the Teroldego of the 2015 vintage, which aged for 24 months in tonneau, with small percentages of gamaret and diolinoir, combined with 10% of the sparkling wine base of the Classic Method, not totally fermented (pinot noir and chardonnay). Only indigenous yeasts and no added sugars.
Once upon a time, the tying of the vines took place with the use of "sacolet", the thin branches of the wild willow which, once twisted and tied with a particular knot, ensured that the shoots were held firmly to the iron wires that made up the vineyard: a This wine with a peasant, rustic and genuine table feel is dedicated to them.
A lively, lively wine, which at first glance reminded me of the ripe blackberries that I picked as a girl in the countryside with my grandfather, but also of the geraniums in my grandmother's pots; in the mouth the texture is dense, it is juicy, it offers sensations of ripe fruit and a direct tasting grip; the acidity flows very pleasantly, the tannicity is absorbed into the fruit.
Definitely designed for cured meats, for a cotechino but – why not? – even for a serious robiola cheese, or a crouton with rustic pâtés, or just like that, alone, to spend whatever you have in company, maybe two fried broad beans or two savory popcorn! Serve at 8°C.
Taste now: it's at the top.
Roro, De Bacco
This wine is emblematic for many reasons and perhaps most of all it represents the courage of the De Bacco brothers: pure Teroldego grapes (which is already a challenge), left on the vine until completely ripe, to have a little more sweetness at the expense of the quantity. It is the last home harvest, very few bottles produced, aging in lightly toasted oak barriques for a year. All this effort gives us a dry wine on the sip, a light tannic texture, but in a wine with personality, with a pleasant and juicy taste dynamic. The Parfums? The sweet spiciness and red fruit, which are clearly perceived, and which then return when tasted. Over all a very particular sensation of violet and incense.
A playful wine, for different occasions, original in pairings: it could be a roast pork cooked with plums, but also a chestnut or porcini soup, or the sponcio corn polenta typical of the Belluno area with Alpago lamb, splendid Slowfood Presidium. Serve at 16-18° C.
Taste now, or within five years.
The shadow of the hawk, Crodarossa
Certainly the most complex wine from Crodarossa L'ombra del falco Vigneti delle Dolomiti, a pure merlot from overripe grapes that ages for twelve months in tonneau and runs on soft, captivating sensorial registers, dynamic structure thanks to the altitude of planting. Let it open in the glass, without rushing, and you will feel it slide into your mouth almost silky: the berries, above all the blueberry (which is truly harvested in the woods here) and a light nuance of vanilla. A savory attack on the palate, to then find all the fruit, accompanied by a beautiful freshness. The palate is broad, harmonious, even if it retains the verve of the mountain.
With Merlot you just have to have fun with the combinations! For example, a large plate of boiled meat mixed with horseradish, horseradish sauce - which is never lacking in these parts - and puree of mountain potatoes or homemade tagliolini with slow-cooked ragù. Serve at 16-18° C.
Taste now, or within five years.
Granpasso, Pian Delle Vette
Memories of cherry in spirit, a light balsamic that stimulates oenological reflection, a puff of aromas of dried flowers in this important red from pure Teroldego grapes of classic 13 degrees. On the sip you perceive a concentration of structure, vertical tension of lively acidity but balanced by the two years in French oak barrels. A dynamic wine with peppery sensations that give freshness, a fruity finish that brings you back to the initial smell, sweet notes in the finish alternating with balsamic this time like sensations of camphor... In short, there is so much to find and tell about in this wine.
The pairings are certainly linked to meat, especially game, the typical dishes of mountain cuisine accompanied by polenta; obviously you can't miss some alpine cheeses such as Monteveronese or Asiago Stravecchio, both Slowfood Presidia. Serve at 16-18° C.
Taste now, or within five years.