The November selections - native Veneto, Piedmont

Step #8

Led by Anna Cardin, November 2018

Vigna Roda is a small family-run company immersed in the greenery of the Colli Euganei Regional Park, south-west of Padua. Gianni and Elena, esteemed hosts, when they open the doors of the tasting room to you, actually welcome you into their home . This very human dimension is one of the most beautiful things to experience in the world of wine . Tasting while sitting at a table, listening to the life of those who make wine there, fully understanding what the life of a winemaker is like... All this is a multivitamin for us sommeliers. In the Euganean Hills the panorama changes step by step and there are areas with real volcanic soil and others with light soils, because the underground push of the magma has led to the lifting of the seabed. Taking a tour of these hills you realize how the type of vegetation completely changes depending on the terrain: chestnut woods proliferate in volcanic soils, Mediterranean scrub on marly ones. The same goes for the wide variety of vines that are grown in these areas, each one has its most suitable areas, where it is able to express itself best. This depends on factors such as the variegation of the soil, exposure, altitude... At Vigna Roda both international and native vines are grown: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, serprino and yellow moscato. I propose the "festive wine", the one that is never missing on the laid tables in this period. I remember, when I was a child, the bottle of Moscato at dessert time, among dried and candied fruit, biscuits, panettone, marzipan sweets... The yellow Moscato, also known as Sirio or Fior d'Arancio, is part of the large Moscato family, which together with the numerous Malvasias, arrived in Italy starting from Greece. The yellow muscat, of probable Syrian origins, then spread especially in Veneto and Trentino Alto Adige, where it is known as Goldmuskateller.

Ghiomo - Piedmont

A corner of the Langa in the Roero. The Ghiomo Agricultural Company takes its name from an ancient farmhouse, a former friary convent. We are in Guarene, a small town not far from Alba, geographically in the Roero but outside the denomination for a handful of meters. In reality, the proximity to the Langhe can be felt when tasting the wines. In the Roero the soils are generally sandy and very permeable, while in this area, not far from the Tanaro River, we find marly soils (clay, limestone, with fossil Sant'Agata marl, typical soil of the Langhe area). Sand is present, but in decidedly smaller quantities than in neighboring areas, which is why I like to define them as wines with Roero roots but Langhe wines at heart. These particular conditions, together with the hilly location and the right exposures, allow us to produce wines to be consumed immediately but also, in some cases, to be forgotten in the cellar for a few years. Giuseppino Anfossi loves to define himself as a farmer , on the boxes he uses to package his wines, the writing " Farmer in Guarene" already makes us understand his character. He is a genuine, direct, simple person, with an uncommon humility. If I were to introduce his wines, the first thing I would say is that they are similar to him. He doesn't care about current trends, he cares that his wines are produced according to very specific standards, first of all respect for everything that surrounds him, because if the Earth is treated with respect, in the end it will only reward you . The company is surrounded by greenery, when you arrive you are greeted by the family's army of cats; the door opens and Giuseppino arrives with a big smile... It's now a ritual. Never show up to him empty-handed, his motto is " at a friend's house you should always show up with a bottle of wine ". The Anfossi family is the image of a healthy family, with strong values: the children have their own personal garden where they are learning to grow fruit, vegetables and aromatic herbs. The cultivated vines are Barbera, Nebbiolo and Arneis; approximately 40,000 bottles produced, naturally depending on the vintages. If a vintage does not allow the production of the quantity of quality of the previous year, the number of bottles also decreases drastically. This means that each vintage reflects what nature actually gave, without any magic in the cellar.

Dal Cero - Veneto

The Dal Cero brothers stand out for something rare: they don't miss a beat. Whether we are talking about the Tenuta di Corte Giacobbe in Roncà, the Tenuta Montecchiesi in Cortona, or the latest arrival, the new property in Valpolicella. Their story begins in the 1930s with grandfather Augusto and proceeds very well thanks to the foundations made solid by his sons Dario and Giuseppe. Augusto's grandchildren currently take care of the company completely: Nico, Francesca and Davide. Each of them has a fundamental role in the company. The famous saying "unity is strength" fits perfectly in this case: the desire to grow, the commitment and the numerous trips to the Rhone Valley and Burgundy did the rest. Their wines have very distinct personalities but by tasting, for example, two wines from the same estate, you can sense a very recognizable and distinctive common thread. The territorial footprint is what makes the difference, that territory that they respect and value so much . The Roncà valley rises between 2 volcanoes: Crocetta and Calvarina. The wines of the area are characterized by an important mineral imprint and an acidic tone due to the altitude but also to the area, which is considered "fresher" than others in the denomination. Just take a walk to the Runcata Vineyard (at almost 500 meters above sea level), among acacia trees, flowers, butterflies, insects, red and black stones, to realize the wonder of this place. On clear days the view is breathtaking and to the east you can even see Venice.

The selected wines

EXPERT BOX

Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Passito Petali d'Ambra 2013 - Vigna Roda The most concentrated and complex version from yellow muscat. The versatility of this vine allows the production of drinkable and carefree wines, in sparkling or dry versions, but also a concentrated nectar with a thousand nuances. Petali d'Ambra is obtained from dried and selected grapes , the oriental name refers to its warm color and its exotic and spicy aromas. In a passito wine the range of aromas is always wide and rich in nuances, especially if the starting grape variety is aromatic. The part that sometimes suffers is the palate: it often happens that the olfactory and gustatory opulence is not supported by the right acid-savory vein and therefore after a couple of sips the palate gets tired. This passito, however, will amaze you. You'll feel like biting into a dehydrated apricot: sweet at first glance, until you get to the heart when you chew it, decidedly acidic. A liquid rainbow, scents with warm hues, orange, brown, yellow... Dried apricot reigns supreme, accompanied by dates, figs, citrus fruits, rose petals and dried chamomile flowers. It is a wine that develops captivating spicy aromas over time: curry, white pepper, nutmeg. In this case you need to have a couple of years of patience: it's worth having a small supply in the cellar... When pairing, use your imagination: perfect with apple strudel or Neapolitan pastiera, but let's not just focus on the desserts! We take advantage of the persistence and aroma to pair it with mature, semi-mature, blue or fresh cheeses, accompanying them with fruit mustard. Nebbiolo d'Alba Sansteu 2016 - Ghiomo Nebbiolo is the symbolic grape variety of Piedmont: it resembles the people, the views, the climate and goes well with traditional dishes. At first glance it is a bit grumpy: it is certainly not a wine that runs towards you and hugs you or that reveals everything about itself at first approach. But like less expansive and apparently detached people, he actually has a lot to say, it's just that he needs his time to best express himself. A vine historically present in this region since ancient times, also widespread in the Aosta Valley, Valtellina and Novara, the theories on its origins are various. Certainly present starting from the thirteenth century, when documents are attested that speak of Nebiolio, nebiolium and finally Nebiolo. Popular legend has it that the name derives from fog, because it is a late harvested vine, when the vineyards are shrouded in mist. A difficult vine, late in maturation, demanding, with an important acid-tannic composition. The nose is a little closed at the beginning, you have to know how to wait without rushing: on the first nose the essential notes are released: cherry, red currant, strawberry, liquorice root, rhubarb. Then the fruity part is taken by the notes of terroir... this wine is an extract of what the soil is, very similar in this area to the Langhe. There are other particular scents, especially a very strong green tea note, which combines with undergrowth scents. Mediterranean scrub, menthol and black pepper give that sense of fresh complexity already on the nose, which we will then also find when tasting. On the palate it is very savory, the classic wine that can be defined as vertical , essential, direct. He's certainly not a bodybuilder, rather a marathon runner: muscle yes... but with a lot of nerve. This is a Nebbiolo vinified in the traditional way, with long macerations and maturation in large wood: this enhances the wine without covering it with vanilla notes that would be overpowering. Try it in combination with first courses seasoned with stewed sauces, stuffed pastas such as traditional agnolotti, or roast meats. Soave Superiore Vigneto Runcata 2016, Dal Cero The estate is located in Roncà, in the easternmost part of the denomination. Garganega grows and thrives on volcanic soils composed of lava and tuff. This type of soil, together with the exposure of the vineyards to the south and the hilly location, gives an edge to the wine, together with the average age of the vines (around 50 years on average but some plants exceed 70). The low yield in the vineyard allows us to harvest concentrated grapes, while the temperature change due to the altitude enhances the olfactory part which we will then find in the glass. Soave Superiore Vigneto Runcata speaks a universal language. We like this wine because it manages to be sober, without showing off an opulence that would be excessive, on the contrary, the freshness and a wise use of wood during the maturation phase make it a wine with fruity, spicy and smoky notes perfectly blended together. It is bold but at the same time elegant, it strikes the slightly Burgundian mold: it is a clear example of how aging in wood should enrich a wine without weighing it down and without covering the olfactory and gustatory heritage already present in the potential of the grapes. Every sip is like a cool summer shower. Its strong point is that acidity that I compare to a lemon sorbet : acidic but pleasant, without sharp edges, refreshing. The acidic part allows the wine to evolve over time and makes the vanilla part very tasty: think about when you prepare a cake at home and grate lemon zest into it... The aromas are clear with yellow, orange, chlorophyll and gray lashes: white peach, tropical fruit, citrus fruits, aromatic herbs, wet stones, nutmeg, broom and chamomile. The taste is mineral, savory, this also gives strength to the perception of acidity and distinguishes the type of soil on which the vines are grown. The almond finish is typical of the vine. If you are lucky enough to have a truffle in your hands and maybe you are good at making homemade pasta, try it in combination! But this wine is a must-have , you can indulge yourself by trying it with a thousand dishes, from first courses to second courses, even based on white meats.

ENTHUSIAST BOX

Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Sparkling Wine 2017 - Vigna Roda The more carefree version of yellow Moscato, a wine that everyone can agree on. The aromas are clear: floral explosion reminiscent of orange blossom and rose, closing your eyes you can also perceive a hint of lavender. The citrus notes enhance the already pleasant freshness, together with sage, pear, peach jelly and wet stone. It is a simply drinkable wine, which does not need too many words to explain. To be clear, drinkability in a wine is one of the most important factors. Even we sommeliers who have trained and demanding palates, give up when faced with a wine like this, because it is regenerating, suitable for every occasion. This is its strong point, because in its simplicity and pleasantness it manages to be versatile. Why taste it only at the end of the meal? If you want to surprise, offer it as an entry wine accompanied by oysters, or with traditional leavened desserts: Panettone, Pandoro also accompanied by creams. As regards the right serving temperature, let's remember that in the presence of bubbles, 2 degrees less is always better than more, after all the low temperature enhances the acid part more, which is essential for the indicated combinations. To help you better understand the versatility of this wine, I propose it, especially in the summer, in the Moscato Mojito version: serve it in a large glass, with a few ice cubes, lime zest and mint leaves. Simple and effective. Langhe Arneis Fussot 2017 - Ghiomo Arneis has been synonymous with white wine in Piedmont for centuries: the vine has been cultivated for hundreds of years but has suffered the arrival of international vines, risking being explanted. Farsighted winemakers have preserved it, believing in the uniqueness of this grape deeply linked to the territory. In this vintage in Giuseppino's Arneis there are new olfactory and gustatory notes, probably due to the mix between the type of soil and the hot year. In fact, on the nose, in addition to the typical notes (green apple, pineapple, pear, almond), others stand out which initially recall the marly soil, but by letting the wine warm up a little, curious aromas emerge which recall brine, capers and green olives. Soft, with an important flavor, by passing the tongue over the palate and gums after swallowing it you can grasp the savory, even saline part even better. I like to think that since there was once the sea in these areas, the legacy left to the land can now be tasted in the glass. Try it in combination with veal with tuna sauce, ravioli with herbs, butter and sage, or with a quiche with fresh cheese and Madernassa pears, a typical variety of the area. Valpolicella - Dal Cero We are in San Briccio di Lavagno, not far from Verona, in the easternmost area of the denomination. Right here, a few years ago, the Dal Cero family's new project came to life. A courageous and ambitious project that led to the production of wines closely linked to tradition, revisited in a modern key. One of the most difficult things that the Dal Cero family managed to do was to make the wines produced on this estate (Amarone, Ripasso and Valpolicella) unique and distinctive. The wine I have chosen for you is Valpolicella, the freshest and most immediate expression. Made from corvina, rondinella and molinara, it is designed to be drunk young. One would expect an intensely vinous nose concentrated on the comforting warmth of dark fruity tones, in reality what is immediately striking is the transparency, not only of the color but also of the aromas. Anything but rustic (actually, it enters on tiptoe!) with a very fine nose reminiscent of pomegranate, redcurrant, cherry. The fruit is the part that is perceived at first glance, but on the second nose you realize that underneath the red aromas there are actually elements that lead back to something darker: liquorice root, almond, incense. On the palate it is gentle, in perfect balance, everything is in its place and no component dominates the others. It is always said that true elegance lies in the simplicity of surprising with the essentials. Here we are. Taking advantage of the period, let's try it with tortellini in broth or with lasagna with meat sauce. Being very versatile, it can also be served throughout the meal, because the ease of drinking makes it unobtrusive, meeting everyone's tastes.

The November selections - Veneto-Piedmont among the natives

Step #8

Led by Anna Cardin, November 2018

The selected wines

EXPERT BOX

ENTHUSIAST BOX

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