Step #4
Led by Laura Bertozzi , June 2018
The story of Benanti begins, out of pure passion , at the end of the nineteenth century: the founder Giuseppe was among the first to understand the vocation of the land around Etna for vines. The baton was recovered by his nephew, who bears his name, and today Benanti is led by his sons, Antonio and Salvino.
Although this is by no means an easy viticulture (you have to climb steep slopes!), in 1988 a renewed passion for native vines and volcanic soil resulted in the birth of the winery we know today, among the most capable of interpreting that terroir .
In addition to the other varieties, the 24 hectares of vineyard are dominated by Nerello Mascalese and Carricante.
Antonio and Salvino were infected by their great-grandfather's passion but they went further and today produce truly excellent wines. Wines that are not easily forgotten.
I met Rocco, who runs the company with his sister Erminia, last year in Terre d'Italia. After spending the day chatting and tasting the fruits of King Nebbiolo, I wanted to taste what is called the Barolo of the South, the Aglianico del Vulture.
Rocco is a boy passionate about his land, a high volcanic mountain, which seems to have been thrown at random in the middle of Basilicata, and who doesn't seem to realize the excellent wine it produces . But this is precisely the secret: having maintained the authenticity and humility of the past four generations, when, until about forty years ago, Aglianico was nothing more than blending grapes to "strengthen" the northern vines of little structure. This vine, in reality, today produces elegant, structured wines suitable for longevity.
The D'Angelo family were among the first to make wine on their own after 50 years of activity, when in 1971 the DOC Aglianico del Vulture was recognized.
Producing this wine is not like pulling a rabbit out of a hat: only an unshakable passion allows you to work the 35 hectares of vineyards, all above 650 meters above sea level.
It may seem surprising that a small village of just over a thousand inhabitants, which stands out on Lake Bolsena, is such an important center for national viticulture. And the Cantina Sociale (active since 1929) seems to think this too, which with shy frankness interfaces with those who are well aware of the value of Aleatico and have recently discovered another local wine, San Magno, an IGT from Lazio.
As happens in many Trentino and Sardinian areas, in this case too the cooperative is synonymous with quality and, despite the name, not only brings together winemakers, but also producers of oil and legumes from Alta Tuscia, who benefit from the volcanic tufaceous territory of the area ( the Bolsena volcano).
It is no coincidence that the association of farmers is based in Gradoli, which is the homeland of this Aleatico: a fortified wine that has nothing to envy to other expressions of sweet wine from the same grape variety, so much so that it has continued to receive praise since 1932!
The selected wines
EXPERT BOX
Noblesse, Benanti
It is a Classic Method in which the Carricante grapes, after being vinified, undergo a second fermentation in the bottle for 18 months.
The sensation in the glass is that of coming across, while walking, in front of a bakery that has just baked fragrant bread on a rainy day that wets the rock.
So here are the aromas that rise to the nose before coming across a beautiful bouquet of elderberry and lots of minerality, incense, with delicate appearances of white fruit...
In the mouth the bubble is fine, the sparkling wine is creamy and on the finish comes the verticality of a beautiful acidity, which makes you salivate, and a mineral flavor, which can be felt on the lips and calls for a new sip.
Canneto, D'Angelo
It is the older brother of Sacravite: the grape variety is still Aglianico, but it ages for 18 months in barriques and then rests for 8 months in the bottle before being put on the market.
The red fruit (plum in particular) does the honors, with the berries introducing us to a balsamic note, which slightly tingles the nose.
Let's let it oxygenate well, after all it's already been closed in wood and then in glass for 3 years, let's give it time to acclimatise. Here is also the intense liquorice, the chocolate and a pinch of vanilla and toasting.
The sip is full, warm, the tannin will certainly become silky over the years, meanwhile it is loose-textured, not at all unpleasant but confirms that it will have a long life.
An advice? Buy two expert boxes: drink a bottle of Canneto when you feel like it and forget the other in the cellar, in the dark, lying down and away from temperature variations... in 10 years it will surprise you!
Aleatico di Gradoli, Cantina di Gradoli
If this Aleatico di Gradoli were a dessert it would be a black cherry tart: it smells of biscuits just taken out of the oven and of black cherry jam.
Don't be fooled by the nose: it is a fortified wine that anesthetizes the receptors a little.
In the mouth it is soft, despite not being greasy, it has a lively freshness and also a perceptible tannin, which contrast with the roundness and heat in an excellent way, so much so that it absolutely does not make us feel cloying and indeed enticing, between one biscuit and another , another sip!
ENTHUSIAST BOX
Etna Bianco, Benanti
Smell the cork and you will notice the minerality and a balsamic note of Mediterranean scrub, among which the sage stands out above all.
In the glass a riot of lashing scents of gunpowder, bay leaves, smoking, bergamot and exotic fruit. But what a fun complexity on the nose, especially for a white wine!
In the mouth it does not have excessive body, but it is warm, not too enveloping because the flavor and freshness do not allow it to indulge, but it maintains a pleasant austerity. Persistence is not short at all.
This white Etna is an interesting wine for its complexity on the nose, slenderness in the mouth and the finish which confirms finesse and elegance.
Sacravite, D'Angelo
While we look at the intensity of the ruby red color, which dresses the glass, the intense and fine scent of liquorice immediately rises to the nostrils, even before oxygenating the glass.
If rotated, the scents of eucalyptus, violet, cherry and cassis are also released.
In the mouth it's nice and easy to drink, just like the wines I like: full of character, but at the same time elegant and streamlined!
It has a nice freshness, it is savoury, and the aroma at the end of the mouth is as fine as the sense of smell declared. The tannin is perky, but not broken down. One glass leads to another!
San Magno Lazio IGT, Gradoli Cellar
The sun colors the glass of this San Magno, from which pungent and sweet mineral aromas of exotic fruit rise. It is round in the mouth, softness is the first sensation that is felt and then, as the wine flows on the palate, the verticality of the minerality and lively freshness emerges. The finish brings back the aromas of the nose: minerality and fruit go hand in hand and do not abandon us quickly. A decidedly volcanic wine!
